This piece "ABCD" was completed by Raoul Hausmann in 1923/1924 this piece is a collage and photomontage on paper and is 40.4 x 28.2 cm. Haussmann was one of the leading men of the Berlin dada art period, Raoul Hausmann is attempting to distort the image by adding a variety of different pictures in. Housman is also being very expressive because it just looks very unusual and looks like Hausmann has just sticked ' ' images on the collage. I think Hausmann worked from imagination and using found imagery fro different sources. The work makes me question what the artist is is trying to achieve because it doesn't make a lot of sense. The artist has sed very dull colours , reflecting the time that the art was produced as such Hausmann appears to have little choice about the colours he has used. Raoul was part of the surrealist movement so this would have influenced his work, I like this piece because it has no meaning therefore you are forced in to asking yourself questions also the use of juxtaposition works well.
Raoul Hausmann has a very antiquated style you can tell by the colours of the piece "ABCD", the colours are very dull in this piece so this where as the colours of my work are very bright and vibrant due to me taking my pictures out of a magazine . Both mine and Hausmann style is "cut and paste" his work is very surrealistic where as mine isn't very surrealistic.
You focus on the face first as this is biggest part of the artwork, also the colours play a part as you focus on the big black writing on the orange background, isn't very realistic as it looks like the photos and letters have just been stuck on.
Tuesday, 15 December 2015
Sally Stone - Darkroom - Surrealisim
Dark Room recap; Ensure hands are clean, ensure negatives are clean, set masking frame to appropriate size, leave 1/4 gap around all sides for example a 7" x 5" would be 6 1/2" x 4 1/2". Then load your negative in to the film career shiny side up! 0 on all the dials magenta, scan and yellow, set the F to the brightest F, then use the focus finder to focus, then carefully turn F down 2 steps, carry out a test strip to determine the exposure by doing 2 seconds all over and then using the card to cover up horizontally or vertically and do this till your test strip is all done.
Reasons for making a test strip: to save money on photographic paper, to determine the exposure time therefore saves you a lot of time as you do it all on one piece of paper.
Reasons for making a test strip: to save money on photographic paper, to determine the exposure time therefore saves you a lot of time as you do it all on one piece of paper.
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| Here is my original picture a nice use of tonal range although if i was to do it again I would make sure that the background had a different exposure time! |
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| Here Man Ray has inspired me with the objects placed in my picture. the use of juxtaposition here makes the image much more interesting. |
- Firstly chose your negative that you want to print (make sure it is clean, no scratches and no dust on it)
- Hold the negatives so you can read the numbers, then turn the negative round (not over) so the number is furthest away from you.
- Place your negative in the film carrier in to place.
- With a lens on full aperture, turn on the enlarger. Place a normal piece of paper on the easel and use the focus finder to focus the image (use the focus on the enlarger to focus the image).
- Change the aperture back to f8 to increase the sharpness of the image.
- If the picture looks flat increase the amount of magenta on the enlarger.
- Produce a test strip (3 seconds for light photos & 5 seconds for dark photos), develop the test strip as normal.
- Then I placed my objects on top of my photo and turn on the enlarger for 6 seconds.
Screenpritning - health and safety - Surrealism
Screen Printing
equipment needed; spoon, acrylic paint, acrylic medium, squeegee, packaging tape.
The screen is made from a fine mesh material which is fixed to a metal frame. A stencil is placed under the screen and ink is forced through the stencil on to the material below. Screen printing with stencils is best for blocks of colour.
Firstly your positive film positive used will be exposed and will harden the light sensitive emulsion on to the tight fabric which is already on the metal frame, then you have to tape up all the yellow areas and the sides of the metal frame. Once you have done this you can then put your mix of acrylic ink with acrylic medium on to the top of the frame and then squeegee the ink across the screen stencil forcing the ink through the open areas, then lift your frame back up and squeegee ink back across to keep the screen wet otherwise it will dry up.
Wednesday, 30 September 2015
Pen tool and sketch - Graphics tablet
| Here is my original image as you can see some of the outlines look darker then the others this is where I have gone over it. |
| Without the image you can see what i have accomplished. I think this looks very good and simple, aslthough does take some time, I will certainly be usin g this technique again. |
Wednesday, 9 September 2015
Surrealism workshop with Paul Parsons
| Using the polygon lesson tool i started cutting shapes up and making them bigger and smaller by using the transform tool. |
Monday, 8 June 2015
Photographers - Physcogeography artists
Hélène Binet
Hélène Binet was born in 1959 in Sorengo and is of both Swiss and French background. She currently lives in London. She studied photography at the Instituto Europeo di Design in Rome, where she grew up, and soon developed an interest in architetural photography.
Over a period of twenty-five years Hélène Binet has photographed both contemporary and historical architecture. Hélène Binet is shown in both national and international exhibitions.
Black and White photography, very classic, has no time age,
I like her series 'Tate Modern Construction, London, UK' Photographed in 1999.
Here are some of the photos from this series:
Daniel Hewitt
Daniel Hewitt's architectural work is exciting because it is more than just photographs of buildings, He focuses on urban construction. Hewitt was commissioned in February 2012 by the McGee Group to document the concrete work for the Tate Modern Tanks. The lovely collection of photographs makes the the construction process look much more beautiful then normal, Hewitt finds beauty in moving I-beams and positioning of concrete pillars.
I love his series 'Tate modern Tanks' very similair to Binet's photographers however these are in colour,
Before establishing myself as a photographer, Daniel spent just under a decade pursuing academic interests in philosophy, architecture, and law, specialising in the philosophy of architectural aesthetics.
Daniel's current work is divided into personal and commercial projects. Personal projects explore philosophical questions in architecture and the built environment. Commercial projects so far include documenting major buildings and construction sites in central London, such as Tate Modern, Bloomberg Square and Crossrail.
Pictured below is his series 'Tate Modern Tanks'
Sources; http://www.helenebinet.com/about.html
http://www.danielhewitt.com
Thursday, 4 June 2015
Final piece - Physcogeography
How I created my final piece for Physcogeography
| Firstly I put the picture of my chosen building in to Adobe Ilustrator. |
| Secondly I selected the layer and used the magic wand tool and selected the blue sky and changed the consistency to get it just right. |
| Then I deleted the blue sky so I only had my building left. |
| I then copied the layer because I was clicked on the background, I then duplicated this layer. |
| I then made it black & white and used the sliders to make the wall roughly the same colour. |
| Using the brightness and contrast, I changed the contrast to make the wall look roughly the same again. |
| Using the levels to make the colours within the picture roughly the same for my screen print. |
| And here it is my final piece ready for a screen print. |
Photoshop
Firstly I inserted the image in to Photoshop, I then used the magic wand tool to get rid of the areas I didn't want so the sky and the tree, i changed the tolerance so I didn't delete any of the building. Then I selected the image and pressed inverse and then copied the image to an A3 template.
I then started to copy the image several times and made the photo either bigger or smaller and used the shift key to make sure the image was done in proportion. I then made sure the images was behind each other so it didn't look odd.
I then changed the contrast of the image to 100 and changed the levels and made it black and white and made sure all of the black parts all looked a similar colour to each other and same for the white parts. This was then ready for screen printing.
Screenprint
Screenprint
The screen is made from a fine mesh material which is fixed to a metal frame. A stencil is placed under the screen and ink is forced through the stencil on to the material below. Screen printing with stencils is best for blocks of colour.
Firstly your positive film positive used will be exposed and will harden the light sensitive emulsion on to the tight fabric which is already on the metal frame, then you have to tape up all the yellow areas and the sides of the metal frame. Once you have done this you can then put your mix of acrylic ink with acrylic medium on to the top of the frame and then squeegee the ink across the screen stencil forcing the ink through the open areas, then lift your frame back up and squegee ink back across to keep the screen wet otherwise it will dry up.
White gel pen
I then added white gel pen to my screen print which had a red graffiti background, I found it quite difficult to chose what parts to use the white gel pen on so with some experimentation I finally selected the areas I wanted to use the white gel pen on and went for it. I found it very hard because the white gel pen sometimes wouldn't go on the paper so then I went over it which made some lines thicker then others.
Review for camera - I used manual settings so I had more control over the camera rather then auto settings, this includes the aperture and shutter speed, I shot a couple of photos and adjusted the settings to what I needed.
Review for camera - I used manual settings so I had more control over the camera rather then auto settings, this includes the aperture and shutter speed, I shot a couple of photos and adjusted the settings to what I needed.
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