How to create a photogram!

Black and White Photograms 

Photograms are a 1:1 print this means it is directly placed on top of the photographic paper and is the same scale. Each image produced is unique meaning that it cannot be reproduced because it is made by exposing light to the photographic paper.

Some objects used block out the light completely for example a tennis ball this is because the light cannot penetrate the surface, others create shadows for example a glass bottle.

We had to use the Darkroom which is a room that is blacked out so that no light is exposed to the piece of photographic paper which could ruin the photo.

Firstly I turned on the enlarger ready for my photograms. I adjusted the height of the enlarger head to ensure light covers the printing area (A5). I then changed all the colours to 0 (CMY), set the aperture to f/8 and the timer to 3.0 seconds (using the yellow buttons at the top of the square box to change the time). 

I then collected a thin strip of photographic paper (Kentmere) for a test strip and then placed the paper, shinny side up on the surface and placed some of my objects on top of the paper for my test strip. I then exposed the test strip for 3.0 seconds, I then covered the test strip up   with card and did this four times. So then I could roughly see how long I would have to expose it for.I then processed my test strip in chemical baths. I put it in the Developer for 2 minutes the chemicals in the developer react with the silver halide on the film, to change any silver halide that has been exposed to light to metallic silver `which reveals the shapes on the negatives Areas that receive more light become blacker when developed. Areas that receive no light stay clear.

1. In to the stop bath for 30 seconds, the stop bath is an emulsion downed chemical mix which stops it from over developing. It washes off the developing chemical, but it continues to develop but at a very low level.
2. Then I put it in the fix for 5 minutes. The fix has to remove the remaining silver halide grains from the Kentmere paper or it will destroy the picture and eventually become black.
3. 10 minutes in the wash which removes all the chemicals so my picture will become permanent.
4. Then in to tray and had to dry it off using the negative dryer (Illford 1250 RC) . I then looked at my test strip for the different exposure times to see which one looked the best. The first light section represents 3.0 seconds and 6.0 seconds, 9.0 seconds and 12 seconds. I could tell by the fade and I was looking for the first solid black. 
5. I then returned the test strip to the fixer for it to carry on developing and set the enlarger timer to the final exposure time which was 7.0 seconds. 
6. I then had an A5 piece of Kentmere paper and put all of my objects on the paper and payed around with the composition then exposed the final image and processed it in the chemicals following the same method as i mentioned earlier and used the same time. Then dried the print.

Health and Safety 

When I am in the dark room I had to wear gloves and googles to stop irritation from the chemicals on my skin. Wash yourself with cold water if any chemicals come in to contact with you. Also clear up any spillages of the chemicals and any glass objects that are broken. 

Sources :

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20111207150043AAY0eX3